Manual transmission cars only.
Built for the Subaru community
Brake, clutch in, and the throttle blips itself. No heel-and-toe, no pedal spacer, no upset chassis mid-corner. It runs inline at the pedal, so your ECU never knows the difference, tuned or not.
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VIDEO.hero.id in the config block below
Real car, real downshifts. Sound on.
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Why this matters on a Subaru
Subarus have a notoriously slow throttle response off the pedal signal. A generic blip setting feels soft on them, so ours don't use one.
Subarus like a 50% Blip with a short duration around 200-300ms. Your module ships already programmed for your car. We did the testing so you don't have to.
Big turbo, protune, flex fuel, ported heads: none of it matters. The module only reproduces the same pedal voltages your foot would. It's compatible with any ECU, tuned or not, and the ECU can't tell the difference.
It will handle a skip like 5th to 3rd, but the blip is a fixed target rather than a calculated one, so on a big jump it may not bring the revs up far enough. Downshift through the gears in a straight line, finish before you turn in, and you arrive at the corner in the right gear at the right rpm.
How the blip behaves
The module sends your ECU the same throttle command on every downshift. How much rpm that command adds depends on where the engine is when the blip starts. Start higher in the rev range and the same blip gains more rpm.
The driver brings the revs up with his foot, lifts off the throttle, then presses the brake and clutch, exactly like a real downshift. That triggers the blip, and the tach shows how the engine reacts.
Every blip in this clip is 80% for 180 ms. The command never changes between runs. Only the rpm it starts from does.
Blip from lower rpm and the revs rise less. Blip from higher up and the identical command adds more. That is your engine and drive-by-wire responding the way they would to a heel-and-toe blip at the same rpm. The module is not changing anything.
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The install
The module goes between your accelerator pedal and the chassis harness, then picks up your existing brake and clutch signals. Mount it in the glovebox area, flip the included switch, and go drive.
VIDEO.install.id in the config block below
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Tap Add to Bag, then choose your car from the list. Manual transmission cars only.
| WRX sedan, 2006 and newer | Subaru WRX Sedan (2006+) |
| WRX hatch, 2006-2014 | Subaru WRX Hatch (2006-2014) |
| STI sedan, 2004-2021 | Subaru STI Sedan (2004-2021) |
| STI hatch, 2004-2014 | Subaru STI Hatch (2004-2014) |
| BRZ, 2013 and newer | Subaru BRZ (2013+) |
| GT86 / 86 / GR86, 2012 and newer | Toyota GT86/FT86/GR86 (2012+) |
| FR-S, 2013-2016 | Scion FR-S (2013-2016) |
| Crosstrek, 2018-2023 | Subaru Crosstrek (2018-2023) |
Sedan and hatch are listed separately because the wiring differs. Not sure which one? Talk to us and we will tell you.
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The details
No. The module is for manual transmission cars only. It triggers on brake, then the clutch pedal switch, and an automatic or CVT has no clutch pedal.
No. It's compatible with any ECU, tuned or not. The ECU will not know the difference. The module doesn't alter your OEM ECU, your calibration or your map. It only ever reproduces the same accelerator pedal sensor voltages your own foot would generate.
Same answer for forced induction changes and ECU reflashes, as long as the pedal wiring itself hasn't been modified. If your tune has its own auto-blip feature turned on, use one or the other, not both.
Brake first, then clutch. When you press the brake, the module arms itself. If it then sees a clutch press while you're still braking, it blips. There's no time limit between the two: brake at corner entry, clutch whenever you're ready.
Press the clutch without braking and nothing happens, which is exactly what you want: your upshifts are completely untouched.
Honest answer: the module has no gear, speed or RPM input. Brake-then-clutch is the only thing it reads. So if that sequence happens at a standstill or on a hill start, it will blip, because it has no way to know that wasn't a downshift.
Most owners flip it off for slow driving around town and back on when they're actually driving. That's what the included switch is for. It isn't designed for stop-and-go traffic.
Yes, over USB. The adjustable parameters are:
Do it from a Windows PC, or straight off your phone with any USB serial terminal app and an OTG cable, so no laptop is needed in the paddock. Most people never touch the defaults, because we develop them per platform when we do the install.
Throttle pedal spacer: no. A spacer only moves the pedal. The module plugs into the pedal's connector, so it doesn't care where the pedal sits. Many owners find they don't need the spacer once the blip happens on its own.
Throttle response controller (the boxes that plug in at the pedal): talk to us before ordering. Both devices sit on the same pedal connector, so the order they plug in matters, and we want to confirm your setup first.
No. Aftermarket clutches and shifters are fine. The module reads the clutch switch signal, not the clutch itself. Let us know what's in the car on the form and we'll flag anything worth knowing.
The module in a sealed enclosure with motor grade connectors (5.2″ × 2.8″ × 1.7″), the inline accelerator pedal harness for your chassis, the brake and clutch connections your generation takes, an on/off switch, and a USB programming cable.
Red LED for power, blue LED that lights for the duration of every blip so you can see it firing. Every unit is end-of-line tested before it leaves the bench.
Yes. The design is passive and the install is reversible. Unplug the module, reconnect the OEM connectors, and the car is exactly as it was. With the module simply switched off it passes the pedal signals through untouched.
Ready when you are
Know your car is on the list? Order now and we start the build. Have a question about your car, your tune, or how it drives? Send it over and one of us will get back to you.